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oapen-20.500.12657-56602
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oapen-20.500.12657-566022022-06-02T03:29:59Z Chapter Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630 Currie, Elizabeth Florence fashion masculinity military bravery This chapter analyses the influence of contemporary ideals of valour, physical strength, and martial skill on male court fashions. It outlines the various channels that enabled the propagation of martial styles and begins by examining the close relationship between inner valour and outward display, highlighting the meanings ascribed to the words “bravo” and “bravura” in sixteenth-and seventeenth-century Italian texts and imagery. Florentine courtiers were surrounded by idealised representations and performances of warfare, including mock battles with lavish costumes that were a key feature of Medici propaganda. Soldiers and mercenaries were themselves frequently characterised as fashion setters, associated with gaudy colours, flamboyance, and ornate decorations considered inappropriate male attire in many civic contexts. The chapter proceeds to focus on three key aspects of male dress connected with military might and physical strength: leather upper garments, frogged fastenings on cloaks and gowns, and adherent, short trunk hose. Consumer demand for these styles and their cultural meanings are traced through contemporary literature, visual sources, and archival records. 2022-06-01T12:29:30Z 2022-06-01T12:29:30Z 2022 chapter ONIX_20220601_9788855185653_786 9788855185653 https://library.oapen.org/handle/20.500.12657/56602 eng Datini Studies in Economic History application/pdf Attribution 4.0 International 29760.pdf https://books.fupress.com/doi/capitoli/978-88-5518-565-3_20 Firenze University Press 10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.20 10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.20 bf65d21a-78e5-4ba2-983a-dbfa90962870 9788855185653 2 21 Florence open access
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OAPEN
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DSpace
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| language |
English
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| description |
This chapter analyses the influence of contemporary ideals of valour, physical strength, and martial skill on male court fashions. It outlines the various channels that enabled the propagation of martial styles and begins by examining the close relationship between inner valour and outward display, highlighting the meanings ascribed to the words “bravo” and “bravura” in sixteenth-and seventeenth-century Italian texts and imagery. Florentine courtiers were surrounded by idealised representations and performances of warfare, including mock battles with lavish costumes that were a key feature of Medici propaganda. Soldiers and mercenaries were themselves frequently characterised as fashion setters, associated with gaudy colours, flamboyance, and ornate decorations considered inappropriate male attire in many civic contexts. The chapter proceeds to focus on three key aspects of male dress connected with military might and physical strength: leather upper garments, frogged fastenings on cloaks and gowns, and adherent, short trunk hose. Consumer demand for these styles and their cultural meanings are traced through contemporary literature, visual sources, and archival records.
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| title |
29760.pdf
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| spellingShingle |
29760.pdf
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| title_short |
29760.pdf
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| title_full |
29760.pdf
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| title_fullStr |
29760.pdf
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| title_full_unstemmed |
29760.pdf
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| title_sort |
29760.pdf
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| publisher |
Firenze University Press
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| publishDate |
2022
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| url |
https://books.fupress.com/doi/capitoli/978-88-5518-565-3_20
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1771297555094700032
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